Located in Henan Province (河南省), China, Kaifeng (开封) is a city that has retained its long history and the richness of the Yellow River civilization. It served as a capital city from the Spring and Autumn Period through the Northern Song Dynasty, and once flourished as a global metropolis thanks to trade along the Grand Canal and the Yellow River.
Even today, attractions like Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden (清明上河园) and traditional night markets keep the old-town atmosphere alive, offering visitors a chance to experience both historical charm and modern entertainment.
Introduction & Features of Kaifeng (开封)
Kaifeng is one of China’s Seven Ancient Capitals, alongside Beijing, Xi’an, Nanjing, Luoyang, Hangzhou, and Anyang. Nicknamed “a living museum,” Kaifeng offers glimpses of the Northern Song (960–1127) era throughout the city. In the past, it was called “Dongjing (東京)” and served as China’s political, economic, and cultural center. Today, it has a population of over five million and is located in the eastern part of Henan Province.
Geographical Characteristics
- Location: Situated in eastern Henan Province, adjacent to the south bank of the Yellow River (黃河).
- Terrain: Located in the fertile plains of the Yellow River basin, where agriculture thrives.
- Climate: A temperate climate with four distinct seasons; spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are the most pleasant for travel. Summers are hot and humid, while winters can be cold but typically receive little snowfall.
Cultural Features
- Traces of Northern Song Culture: Various cultural programs such as performances and reconstructed streets themed around the Northern Song market scenes depicted in Qingming Shanghe Tu (清明上河圖).
- Integration with Yellow River Civilization: Due to extensive interaction with various ethnic groups via the Yellow River, local food, language, and festivals have developed with great diversity.
- Night Market Tradition: After sunset, night markets selling street food and various handicrafts appear throughout the city, providing travelers with a unique experience.
History of Kaifeng (开封)
From Ancient Times to the Spring and Autumn Period (~3rd Century BC)
Prehistoric & Ancient Eras
- Prehistoric Period: The Yellow River basin is one of China’s major cradles of civilization. Neolithic cultures (e.g., Yangshao, Longshan) were widely distributed across the broader Henan region, including Kaifeng. Archaeological discoveries of pottery and stone tools around Kaifeng show that the area was inhabited from very early times.
- Xia (夏), Shang (商), and Zhou (周) Dynasties: Although Kaifeng was within the spheres of influence of these early dynasties, it was not particularly highlighted as a capital. However, the agricultural and transportation advantages afforded by the Yellow River contributed to steady population growth and economic development in the region.
Spring and Autumn Period
- Origin of Daliang (大梁): Around the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, Kaifeng was known as “Daliang (大梁).” During this era of intense rivalry among states such as Han, Wei, Zhao, Yan, Qi, and Chu, Kaifeng—situated at the juncture of the Yellow River and the Huai River (淮水)—held great military and economic value.
- After the Tri-split of Jin (晉): In 403 BC, the State of Jin was partitioned into Han, Wei, and Zhao. The Kaifeng area, part of Chenliu Commandery (陳留郡), came under Wei’s control. Wei developed Daliang as a key hub for commerce and transportation.
Qin (秦), Han (漢), Wei (魏), and Jin (晉) Dynasties (3rd Century BC – 5th Century AD)
Qin and Han Dynasties
- Qin Unification (221–206 BC): After Qin Shi Huang unified China, the Kaifeng region fell under the administrative reorganization of the Qin. Under the nationwide commandery-county system, local logistics and irrigation facilities along the Yellow River were improved.
- Western Han and Eastern Han (202 BC – 220 AD): During the Han period, Kaifeng played the role of a buffer zone linking transportation and waterways throughout the Central Plains. While it did not rival the political significance of Chang’an (長安) or Luoyang (洛陽), commerce and trade via the Yellow River continued to fuel Kaifeng’s growth.
Era of the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties (魏晉南北朝)
- From Western Jin (西晉) to Eastern Jin (東晉), and the Northern and Southern Dynasties: After the collapse of the Wei, Western Jin rose to power. However, internal turmoil (e.g., the War of the Eight Princes) destabilized the Central Plains. During these upheavals, Kaifeng continued serving as a conduit for goods and people along the Yellow River, facilitating north-south exchange. Under the Northern and Southern Dynasties, various northern ethnic regimes frequently changed Kaifeng’s administrative status.
- Three Kingdoms Period: During the Three Kingdoms era (Wei, Shu, Wu), Kaifeng was part of Chenliu Commandery (陳留郡). While it was close to Cao Cao’s base in Yanzhou (兗州) and Yuzhou (豫州), it did not become a major battleground for large-scale conflicts.
Sui (隋), Tang (唐), Song (宋), and Yuan (元) Dynasties (6th – 14th Century)
Sui Dynasty (581–618)
- Sui’s Grand Canal Construction: The Sui built the Grand Canal to connect the capital Daxing (大興, present-day Xi’an) with eastern regions and the Jiangnan (江南) area. By linking the Yellow River in the north, the Yangtze River (長江) in the south, and the Huai River (淮水) in the east, the Sui ensured the flow of grain and other resources to the capital.
- Rise of Kaifeng: Owing to its proximity to the Yellow River and its link to the southern regions via sections of the Grand Canal, Kaifeng rapidly emerged as a major trade center for agricultural products and daily necessities.
Tang Dynasty (618–907)
- Overextension led to the Sui Dynasty’s quick demise, and the succeeding Tang set its capital at Chang’an. Kaifeng remained a strategic hub along the Yellow River for logistics, as well as a midpoint linking Chang’an, Luoyang, and the south.
- Despite upheavals such as the Huang Chao Rebellion in the late Tang period, Kaifeng continued to flourish commercially, supported by the Grand Canal and overland trade routes.
Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (907–979)
- Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms: After the fall of the Tang, five successive northern dynasties (Later Liang, Later Tang, Later Jin, Later Han, Later Zhou) reigned (the “Five Dynasties”), while ten small kingdoms ruled in the south (“Ten Kingdoms”).
- During this period, Kaifeng served as either the capital or a strategic base for several of the northern dynasties. The city underwent multiple reconstructions, with significant investment poured into its development as dynasties rose and fell.
Northern Song Dynasty (960–1127)
- Founding of the Song: In 960, Zhao Kuangyin (趙匡胤), a general of Later Zhou, ascended the throne and founded the Song Dynasty (later known as Song Taizu). He made Kaifeng (then called Dongjing, 東京) his capital and developed it into China’s political, economic, and cultural epicenter.
- A City of Over One Million: By the early to mid-11th century, Kaifeng’s population had already exceeded one million, making it one of the world’s most populous cities at the time.
- Economic and Cultural Prosperity: Commerce thrived, evidenced by the circulation of the paper currency “Jiaozi (交子).” Even ordinary citizens enjoyed high levels of education and cultural activities.
- Qingming Shanghe Tu (清明上河圖): Painted by Zhang Zeduan (張擇端), this masterpiece offers a remarkably detailed depiction of urban life in Kaifeng during the Northern Song, from bridges and houses to ships, shops, and street scenes.
- An International City: Merchants from Persia, Central Asia, and the Arab world frequented Kaifeng, and the Kaifeng Jewish community is believed to have originated in this period.
Jin (金) and Yuan (元) Dynasties
- Jingkang Incident (靖康之變, 1126–1127): In the mid-late Northern Song, the Jurchen-led Jin Dynasty from the north gained strength and eventually captured Kaifeng in 1127, taking Emperors Huizong and Qinzong as prisoners. This event, known as the Jingkang Incident, marked the fall of the Northern Song.
- Under Jin Rule: The Song court fled south and founded the Southern Song in Lin’an (臨安, present-day Hangzhou), leaving Kaifeng and other northern areas under Jin control. For a time, Kaifeng served as the “Northern Capital (北都)” of the Jin, but constant warfare and frequent Yellow River floods gradually led to the city’s decline.
- Yuan Dynasty: After the Mongols defeated the Jin and established the Yuan Dynasty in 1271, Kaifeng was reorganized as an administrative city. However, it never regained the prominence it enjoyed under the Northern Song. Ongoing conflicts during the Mongol conquest of the Southern Song, coupled with high taxes, led to further hardships for Kaifeng and the surrounding Central Plains region.
Ming (明) and Qing (淸) Dynasties (14th – Early 20th Century)
- Loss of Status as a Capital: Throughout the Ming and Qing eras, Kaifeng was no longer a capital or political center, but it continued to serve as a major commercial hub linking central China.
- Frequent Yellow River Floods: The Yellow River often changed course and overflowed its banks, causing devastating floods in Kaifeng. A notable disaster occurred in 1642, during the late Ming, when government troops intentionally breached the dikes to stop rebel forces (“the Kaifeng Flood Incident”). The ensuing flood inflicted immense damage on the city, causing hundreds of thousands of deaths and leaving Kaifeng in ruins.
- Continued Cultural and Religious Diversity: Even through the Ming and Qing periods, Kaifeng maintained its historical diversity, including the Kaifeng Jewish community, Islamic mosques, Buddhist temples, and Taoist sites. Yet, repeated flooding and warfare prevented the city from regaining its former grandeur.
Modern Era (20th Century – Present)
- Late Qing and the Republic of China: In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Henan Province went through turmoil under Western imperialist pressure and the Xinhai Revolution (1911). Kaifeng’s infrastructure stagnated due to warfare and was used sporadically by various government institutions and warlords.
- After the Founding of the People’s Republic of China: Once the People’s Republic was established in 1949, Kaifeng was incorporated as a county-level city of Henan, then later promoted to a prefecture-level city. There have been conflicts between preserving cultural heritage and promoting industrialization, but government-led tourism projects are restoring and re-creating old sites.
- Kaifeng as a Tourist Destination: Today, Kaifeng is gaining attention for its historical sites such as the ruins of the Northern Song Imperial Palace (Longting), the Iron Pagoda Temple, and Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden (a theme park based on Qingming Shanghe Tu). Since the 1990s, urban redevelopment and traditional street/night market restoration have brought a steady rise in domestic and international tourists, contributing to the local economy.
- Legacy of Multiculturalism: Traces of Kaifeng’s cosmopolitan heyday during the Northern Song still remain, evident in sites associated with Judaism, Islam, Buddhism, Taoism, and more. Records of the Kaifeng Jewish community, in particular, continue to draw interest from scholars and travelers.
Kaifeng (开封) Travel Guide
Main Attractions
Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden (清明上河園)
A must-see attraction in Kaifeng, this Song Dynasty–themed park recreates the streets, houses, bridges, and markets from Qingming Shanghe Tu. Daily performances showcase Song-era street acts, equestrian shows, and folk activities. Wandering around, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time to the Northern Song period.
Longting Park (龍亭公園)
Longting (龍亭) was once the site of the imperial palace, and today it’s laid out as a park. Entering, you can imagine the grandeur of the Northern Song era: a majestic gate tower and classical structures stand in harmony. In autumn, the park hosts a chrysanthemum festival, where colorful chrysanthemums decorate the grounds beautifully. Parts of the old city walls have also been restored behind the park, offering a special blend of past and present.
Iron Pagoda Temple (鐵塔寺)
Kaifeng’s “Iron Pagoda” (鐵塔) dates back to the Song Dynasty. Although it’s made of brown ceramic bricks that resemble metal, the name stuck because it looks like iron from a distance. A prime example of the era’s architectural and artistic prowess, the pagoda offers a panoramic view of Kaifeng if you climb to the top—an intriguing way to survey the former imperial capital.
Kaifeng Night Market
One of the biggest highlights of traveling in Kaifeng is the street food and night market culture. In keeping with its commercial legacy from the Song Dynasty, the city buzzes with activity after sundown. Stalls selling lamb skewers, noodles, dumplings, and sticky rice snacks line the streets. Spicy dishes with robust northern flavors are particularly popular.
- Recommended Dish: Hula (胡辣) Soup, a thick, spicy broth, especially popular in colder weather. You’ll also find fried snacks, traditional Song-style pastries, and more. The sights, smells, and tastes at night bring the city to life.
BEST Kaifeng Travel Highlights
Culture & Cuisine
Local Dishes
- Hula Soup (胡辣汤): A thick, spicy soup with meat, vegetables, and noodles, perfect for cold days.
- Lamb Dishes: Northern-style lamb skewers and stews, known for their savory, salty richness.
- Dumplings & Noodles: A staple in Henan Province, beloved by locals and tourists alike.
Cultural Events
- Chrysanthemum Festival (October–November): Held in Longting Park and other spots around Kaifeng, featuring vibrant chrysanthemum displays.
- Song Dynasty Street Culture Festival: Hosted at Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden, with performers in period costumes and various cultural shows.
Restaurant Recommendations
- Xiao Song Cheng (小宋城): A complex re-creating Song-era restaurant culture, combining themed decor and live performances for a unique dining experience.
- Kaifeng Diyi Lou (开封第一楼): Famous for its traditional dumplings and noodles, offering an authentic taste of Henan cuisine.
Travel Planning Recommendations
Transportation
- By Air: The closest airport to downtown Kaifeng is Zhengzhou Xinzheng International Airport (郑州新郑国际机场). There are direct or connecting flights from major Korean airports like Incheon or Gimpo. From the airport to Kaifeng takes about 1–1.5 hours by bus or taxi.
- By Rail/High-Speed Train: High-speed trains connect major cities like Beijing and Xi’an to Kaifeng North Station (开封北站). It takes around 3–4 hours from Beijing West Station and 2–3 hours from Xi’an North Station.
- City Transport: Taxis, buses, and shared bicycles (共享单车) are available. Distances between tourist attractions are not overly large, so buses or taxis are convenient for short trips.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–May) and fall (September–October) offer pleasant weather and various festivals.
- What to Pack: Temperatures can vary widely between day and night, so bring a light jacket. Wear comfortable shoes if you plan to stroll along the Yellow River.
- Language Tips: Locals speak Mandarin with a regional accent, but major tourist areas offer basic English signage and some English-speaking staff.
Suggested Itinerary
- Day 1: Explore Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden, take a stroll around Longting Park, and enjoy the night market food.
- Day 2: Visit the Iron Pagoda Temple, tour the old alleyways, and appreciate the natural scenery around the Yellow River.
- Day 3: See the former imperial palace site and local museums, shop for souvenirs, and depart.
Conclusion
Kaifeng is a beautiful blend of Yellow River civilization and the splendor of the Northern Song Dynasty. Though it may not be as modern as Beijing or Shanghai, it preserves a timeless charm. Walk through Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden to relive the glory of the Northern Song, sense the footprints of an ancient empire at Longting Park, and indulge in centuries-old tastes and traditions at the bustling night markets.
Strolling along the banks of the Yellow River—a stage of history—one can truly sense the lives and passions of those who built Kaifeng over millennia. For anyone seeking to experience the depth of Chinese history, Kaifeng is a uniquely captivating choice. Its old alleys, the gentle flow of the Yellow River, and the comforting warmth of a bowl of hula soup will leave an unforgettable impression long after you’ve returned home.